Blow, blow, thou spring wind!

 This adaptation of Shakespeare’s phrase from ‘As you like it’ sums up the conditions in the Outer Hebrides this May. It was 7.30 in the morning as Keith and I sat in the queue of vehicles waiting to board the Caledonian Macbrayne ferry from Oban to Barra. Finally, at 8.15 prompt we left the harbour, causing a single Black Guillemot to take flight as we headed up the Sound of Mull. Duart Castle was left behind and at first there were few birds to be seen, a scan of the coast for White-tailed Eagles proving unsuccessful. A few Gannets and Kittewakes passed but it was not until we had passed Tobermory and headed into the open sea that more birds were sighted. A small flight of Guillemots raced past, stiff winged Fulmars glided effortlessly just above the surface of the sea and a few Manx Shearwaters mimicked their command of the elements. A slightly larger, scruffy shearwater proved to be a Sooty and, as we neared Coll, a raft of Eider, males resplendent in their black, white and jade green plumage bobbed over the waves.

 Closer inshore a Red-throated Diver flew past whilst its larger relative the Great Northern Diver sheltered in a small bay. The calls at Coll and Tiree extended what is usually a five hour trip to one of six and three quarter hours but by the time we reached the harbour at Castlebay Arctic Terns and Razorbills had been added to our list. A short drive the couple of miles to our B & B produced Wheatear and Lapwing, a bird we were pleased to see in numbers, a contrast to the situation in England.

The following morning was a harbinger of the weather to follow as the wind was really starting to blow. Another ferry trip beckoned, this time via Eriskay to Lochboisdale on South Uist. Few birds were seen on the crossing but a trip to the Tourist Information Office proved instructive when the assistant asked if we had come to see the whales. Knowing nothing of this we discovered that a pod of Pilot Whales had come into the Loch Carnan inlet and were in danger of stranding with possibly fatal consequences. We made up our minds to go to see the action and drove almost the length of South Uist, finally parking by the Loch Carnan power station. Immediately behind us was a car bearing the RSPB logo and we were delighted to see our old friend Stuart Taylor, now an RSPB warden living on Benbecula. He had been there since early morning and was on his way home.

There were many other observers including members of various wildlife organisations who were formulating plans should a mass stranding occur. We walked over the rough ground to the cliff top from where we could see the whales. There must have been about sixty in three groups. One or two we could see were injured, showing bloody head wounds which were attracting the attention of the Herring Gulls.

A conversation with a member of Scottish Marine Rescue found that they were not too concerned as the whales were in a bay with a rocky shore and were less likely to beach. However, the adjacent bay was sandy so every effort was being made to keep them out of this more dangerous location. As you may have seen on the national news the efforts were successful with only two fatalities, the rest of the pod regaining the open sea.

 We pressed on towards our B & B, close to the RSPB reserve at Balranald. As we turned off the ‘main’ road Keith alerted me to the presence of a Corncrake which was standing in the middle of the road! So much for elusiveness!

From our digs we could see the beach at Balranald with Dunlin, Sanderling and Ringed Plover in evidence. That evening it was a trip of about seven miles to the nearest pub for dinner, though the sight of three Whooper Swans on a small lochan made it worthwhile. The return journey was even better for, having missed our turn in the dusk, we saw a magnificent Red Deer stag close to the road and were then delighted as a Short-eared Owl crossed our path.

 The following day started with torrential rain. Mad dogs and birders were undaunted. We put on our wet weather gear and walked the short distance to the Balranald visitor centre, adding bedraggled Linnets and a Corn Bunting to our list. Unsurprisingly no one else was at the centre and we soon returned. The weather improved though it was still very windy as we toured the north end of North Uist. In the shallow bay near the airstrip Little Terns were diving. Later in the day, having circumnavigated the island, we were delighted to see another Short-eared Owl as it quartered a garden close to the road. A meal at the inn on Benbecula, where we were joined by Stuart, completed the day.

 By now the weather had settled down into a pattern of ferocious winds interspersed with heavy showers. These blew across so quickly that they were not much of an inconvenience though it was impossible to use a scope except from inside the car. An attempt to see Red-necked Phalarope near Griminis was unsuccessful and this bird eluded us throughout. The gale did have a useful side effect in that, when parked at Stinky Bay (on account of the amount of sea weed it held) on Benbecula we had incredible close ups of both Pomerine and Long-tailed Skuas. In fact, a butterfly net on a ten foot pole attached to the front of the car would have snared them easily.

 The weather continued extremely stormy, the west of Scotland being brought to a halt so it was no surprise when we found that though our ferry from Lochmaddy to Uig arrived there would be no return sailing until the following day. Having given up our accommodation we had a mad scramble to find an alternative, a small B & B at Grimsay where our fellow guests were two young women from Glasgow on a cycling holiday. That evening we arranged to see Stuart again only to find that, as we neared the Hotel there was a power failure. With no natural gas on the islands our food choice was restricted to cold meat salad or beef burgers cooked over a Calor gas stove.

 The following day was a little calmer and the ferry was due to sail at about four. As we waited at Lochmaddy a guide from Heather Lea at Nethy Bridge managed to get a scope onto a pair of Golden Eagles as they soared over a nearby hill. Once on the ferry we were treated to a tremendous passage of sea birds with Arctic and Great Skuas, Guillemots, Razorbills, Puffins, Kittewakes, Fulmars and Manx Shearwaters vying for our attention. A memorable end to our Island trip.

 Paul Daft.